31/7/12

Today we finally moved on to the ROOFING!We started with crimping the ends of the iron at the tops,as this prevents water from getting into the house under the ridge caps.We cut the paper to,4900mm for the underlay of the iron.Our screw patterns for the top and bottom are 1 in then two gaps then one in ect.For the intermediate purlins,It was 1 in,2 spaces,1 in,3 spaces ect.Less screws are required for the middle purlins.We used chalk string lines to mark down where our screws are to be placed.I had a rattle gun with the tech screw piece.The screws are not to be fully screwed right down as the pressure can crack the rubber seals underneath the screws causing small leaks.

To get the first sheet straight,We done a 345 on the roof,marked 3 on the top purlin and 4 on the sheet of iron,Then matched it up to 5.We then tacked the sheet in place with a couple of nails.Another way of checking it for square is to have a string line up the top of the roof and one at the bottom of the roof,then you can move them around till they fit nicely between the string lines.

The other part of the class went ahead with the exterior window facing boards.We will be doing that tomorrow when we rotate.The tools we will be using are routers,chizels and many more.Primer will also be used to keep the freshly cut timber treated from the elements.

30/7/12

So today I got stuck into the Fixing,for the window facings and flashings.I measured the distance between the weatherboards then went to the joinery room with Cam and ripped the timber to 45mm by 45mm.With some of the window headers,I had to use packers so that the face of the H1.2 timber was flush with the window.The facings will be ready to put on tomorrow.Then we can nail up the window top sill flashings.



Fixing for the window flashings and facings.

In class this morning,we went back over sealants and roofing.We were told that for the top of the sheets for the roof that we use vice grips and bend the valley parts of the sheets back,this prevents water from entering the top of the building under the flashing caps.The sheets are to overhang into the gutter by 50mm.The overlap of the iron is 2 valleys.The over lap for the builders paper is 150mm. The top and bottom of the roof has a screw on every rise. and a screw on every 2-3 rise to every purlin.I will set up a string line at each end of the roof,Top and Bottom So that I can line up the sheets of iron nicely and straight.We start off with one full length sheet then carry on.The overlaps of the sheets are determined when we know the main direction that the wind blows for that area,but in our case,We will do whatever as we are building indoors and don't know where the house will finally be placed.

Packers making the timber flush with the window.

24/7/12

So today,I cut the final piece of facia.I had to put blocking off the soffiet bearer so I had fixing for the join for the facia boards.Primed up each end.Then sat it in place and used a hand drill to predrill the holes for the jolts.Now the final soffiets can be set up and finished.I then moved on to the second to last window of the house.Used flat heads to sercure the flashing down to the sill of the window.We had to roll over the edge of the flashing as the space we had was a tight fit.8mm packers were used at the left hand side of the opening with 5mm at the other end.I used a straight edge spirit level to get the sills all level then put the final packers in the last slot,After this it was all screwed off.My rule was used against the edge off the sill and the face of the wall,this was done as the gib is 10mm thick.

Nailing off a beam for our scaffold.

The Standards and putlogs and blocking.

After lunch me and the other half of the class went on to making our own timber scaffold set up.Ours is 6 metres in length.The set up contains components off;Putlogs,Standards,Kick rail,mid rail,top rail and 4 rows of scaffold boards.These have to be set up on a building site if the building exceeds 3 metres in height.This is to ensure that we as the builders are safe for when it comes screwing off the iron sheets for the roof.The kick rail is there to prevent tools,paint,power tools,basically anything that is sitting up there.

In our morning session upstairs Matt taught us about what materials that can be used with each other,Metals and plastics for roofing.And other things around the house,I never knew how badly corrosion can be untill I looked at the chart we were given stating what can be matched together and what can't be.Plastic can be attached to a roof of corrigated gav iron as it can rust it.The minerals in each metal can have a positive or a negative effect on each other.It is important to get the right materials for the right job.

23/7/12

We all started down stairs in the classroom today.We have started our next assessment which is sealants,These are;Sillicone,Glues,Paint.Sillicone can be used on

-Metal Roofing.
-Flashings and downpipes.
-Lap joins in zincalunme,colourboard and other bhp decorative sheet metal.
-Skylights and extraction units.
-Air conditioning.
-Sheet metal.
-Aluminium,Brick,steel and Concrete.

Paints stop timber and sheet metal from rusting or rotting in weathered condtions over time.If timber is cut and the insides are exposed then paint,(primer) is then used to seal the timber to prevent moisture and rott from weaking the structural intergrity of the materials used on the job.

Sillicone basically fills gaps where water can have access to on the outside of the house.For roofing,under ridge caps and flashings for fireplace flues.This stops the capillary action,keeping the inside of the house safe from water.

After the classroom session we continued on with the build.I got stuck into the weather boards on 2 sides of the house,Cut lengths at 1955mm for one width of the house.Primed up the ends then put the boards up to the line on the building paper.Grabbed a level and sat that on top of the board then moved the other end to the correct height and nailed them off with the finishing air compressed gun,We nail the boards to each 600mm center stud.One half of the class went ahead and got into the scaffolding exercise that is required for an assessment.I will be doing that later on in the week.Mostly all the boards are up around the house now,We are ready to install flashings to the tops of the windows.One side of the house has been put on hold as the meter box needs to be put up on the house,once that has been sorted we should have it all done and ready to move on to roof iron.

17/712

We went upstairs yesterday,And drew a few pictures of eaves and verges,We had to label all the members of each roof.An eave are soffits,just like on our ucol build.Verges and the overhang on a gable ended house where the soffit plates are not level with the soffit plate.We started to install the windows,The top of the window sill was measured from one end to the other then measure the window opening,What ever the gap is on one side of the window is divide it by 2 and pack one side of the window opening.We had a large selection of different sized packers to use.

We had to get the weatherboards nailed off right under the window openings so we could fix the window flashings down to the window sills.We used flat head 1 inch nails to nail it down.We then had 2 people grab the window and lift it into opening.For the flashings for the doors and lounge openings,We had to chizle the lip on it so we could slide the doors into place.When we had them in,I used my rule and sat it up against the sill to get it flush,10mm for the gib.Then packed them and drilled the holes.I used a rattle gun/drill for screwing the sills off to.Then a level was used to see how plumb the frames were for the openings.Once all the windows are put on the house we then can carry on with the remainder of the weatherboards,there is a 10mm gap from the window frame and the boards,This is so that air can travel,stopping capillary action in the openings.We are now able to run the boards all the way up to the soffiets.

16/7/12

Back side of the house.

We went back over scaffolding today to refresh our minds about the names of the members.We then went ahead with the house build.Me and Haydn carried on with the Soffiets,Got all of the ones done that we had access to.200mm centers for the nailing off to the soffiet plate and 830mm centers for the outriggers.The boards slot into the plastic tabs.After this Me and Brad continued on with weather boards.We managed to get ,most of the boards up for half of the house.The cut ends were primed up.Then the boards were nailed to the studs.The next thing we done was grabbed a straight edge and ruled down the boards as to where the studs are behind the boards.Then i used the builders square,and adjusted it to 35mm and marked off where the holes were to be pre drilled.Jolt head 3 inch nails were then nailed in to fix the boards to place.

lounge Window

Window Flashings were also being put in by another group,Hopefully tomorrow I will be able to get stuck into them aswell just to speed things up a bit.The Ceiling battens are basically all in place now and ready for the gib.We should have the windows all tacked and nailed in.The top flashings will be finished tomorrow.

I think we will be starting to build a timber scaffolding in the next week or 2 for our assessments which will be good.

11/7/12

So today we got as far as we could with the Facia.We are now waiting for the last piece to arrive to finish it off.I set up a string line with dodge and blocks to re check the outriggers.Some were out due to the timber warping,so i nailed some packers to the end of the outriggers to get a nice straight facia on the house.I then moved on to doing soffits.They were marked at 200mm centers for the flat heads to be nailed into the soffit plate.Then found the centers of the out riggers which were 900mm on the width of the house.and 600mm on the length of the house.Plastic slots were cut at 605mm for the soffit cement board to slot in to.

Getting the Facia to the correct height.

All the Facia that we have done.

I had ago at weather boards as well.The building paper was already chalk lined ready for me to put the weather boards up onto.Brad,used the skilly to cut a slot out of the board for where the back door was.Our ends were painted with primer to prevent rott and swelling by outside conditions.We should have the rest of the weather boards finished next week when we return,along with the Soffiets and facia when the rest of the materials arrive.

A few of the walls have been straightened on the inside as well due to people removing the internal bracing when they should not have.Now the rest of the ceiling battons are being nailed off ready for gib.

10/7/12

Matt taught the class about how water can get into an external wall on a house or a shed.Whether it be weather boards or iron cladding.There are 4 ways water can get into a wall.

-Capillary Action.
-Kinetic Energy.
-Surface Tension.
-Gravity.

Wind can push the water up into the cracks or grooves in the weather boards or iron cladding.Gravity lets the rain run down the boards on the outside,Whilst Capillary action is when water is obsorbed and seeps it's way up through the timber.There are 4 ways to weather proof a house or building.They are known as the 4 D's.;Deflection,Drainage,Drying and Durability.

Materials that have absorbant properties,Bricks,Clay tiles,Stone,natural roofing and twitch.These obsorb water,while the remainder of the water drains down the face of the materials.A ventilated Cavity allows the water that penetrates the cladding to drain down the inner face of the outer skin.A water proof wall wrap acts as a second line of defense against water ingress,A wall wrap must breath to allow vapour to escape.

Ceiling Battons.

After the small session in class.We all vacated back to the house build.We started fixing the weather boards to the house,Matt made up a guide as to where the chalk lines were to be snapped to on the wall wrap.Then galv Jolt heads,75mm were used.All the joins were mitred.They were directly fixed as the soffiets were 600mm wide.Therefore no cavity batton was needed for the build.Most of the ceiling battons are now installed.They were spaced at 600mm centers.As the Gib boards are 1200mm wide.The windows arrive this Friday ready for us to go ahead and put them in.We will also be finishing the remainder of the facia and soffiets then onto the rest of the weather boards.

9/7/12

We started off in class working on a subject,Scaffolding.And what it is used for ect.Scaffolding is set up on a building site around the construction or erection of a building.It is very useful for us as builders needing to work on high points of the build,For example,Me and Brad used portable scaffolding on each side of the house.We needed it for the installation of the outriggers for our soffiets.

There are many parts to a scaffold set up;Ledger,Standard,Hand guard,midrail,Kick rail,putt rails,Sole boards.These are some of the components involved in scaffolding.

Aluflex which was attached to the lounge opening.

Aluband along with the plastic corners.

Aluband.

Soffiets.

Once we got back to the E Shed.We went ahead with facia.We got our entire side done,Then we moved onto one of the 7.2m sides of the house,turned out the outriggers were all different lengths,So we had to remove them and re cut them to the correct lengths,A dodgem block was set up as well.A spirit level was used to level the outriggers in place.Then used a nail gun to fix them to place.A few of the other groups were setting up ceiling batten,for the inside.While another group is doing the soffiets.Cement board ws used.200mm centers for the nailing with nails to the soffiet plate.with a nail into every outrigger.Flat head nails were used.Regan and Tom were laying down aluband,Plastic corners were also nailed in before the aluband was laid down,Add 200mm to the bottom length of the band at each end,so 400mm in total.Then clean the surface it is being attached to.After this remove the film on the adhesive surface then place it onto the building wrap around the buildings openings.Once this is all laid out,attach a stip of 50mm by 100mm to each of the corners on a 45 degree angle to prevent the tape from moving or coming off while continuing with the build.