27/6/12

So today,We started off with a small blog session in the e shed.I then went back to the house build after and finished doing the bracing for the corner/Hip purlins,I cut them on a 10 degree slope with a 45 degree angle cut.I nailed them off with a nail gun using 4 inch bright galvs.

Facia going up.



Wire stapled down to the purlins.



Me,Brad and Takey getting the facia to the right height.

We went back into the E shed after smoko to endure a 2 hour session of assessment related work on the laptops in regards to the Roofing section of the build.I basically have caught up with most work and have passed all standards so far.After 12pm me and a few others started with Facia.This was my first time doing it,The end of the Facia was cut on a 45 angle and the top of the inside groove was to fit flush with the bottom of the outriggers that are attached to the Soffiet bearer.I used my rule to slot into the grove and sat it flush with the outriggers.I used a electric drill to pre drill the holes for the 3 inch galv nails.We worked our way one out rigger at a time.After each one we sighted it down the other end.Each end of the facia was coated with a selant to prevent rott in the timber.

26/6/12

So today we learnt how to work out the length of iron needed for our roof build.And how many sheets we needed to cover the entire roof.We worked out that we needed 24 sheets for the job.We also worked out the amount of builders wrap we needed to.

We moved back to the build,Me and Brad finished our side of the house installed all the outriggers to the soffiet bearer.We used blocks to lever the outrigger just above the stringline then nail them off into place.Once that was done we helped the others out then I moved on to measuring and cutting out bearers to fill in the gaps under the width side of the house.I skew nailed the two pieces of timber together.Then clamped them under the Boundary joists then nailed them home.Using 4 inch galv nails.We did this so that there is a fixing for the weather boards to be attached to.Brackets and straps will also be used to stop movement making the building a lot more stable and sercure.

Other members of the class were told to screw off brackets to each of the piles under the house.While the rest of the class were fixing up a few hurricane ties that were all mangled,Half of the ties weren't fully nailed off.Then all the rooms were checked for square and the walls checked for plumb.A straight edge and level was used for this.So now finally the house out riggers are all finished.

25/6/12

So today we revised over roofing member names.Basically the same stuff as last week.We then went over on how to deal with new roof trusses when they arrive on site.They are usually to be stored next to the Build/Foundation.And flipped up the right way so that they can easily be grabbed and lifted up onto the top plates of the build.There are usually 3 people that deal with the carrying of the trusses.2 up on the roof pulling them up into place with one guy down the bottom lifting them up.Another good thing is to measure the bottom cord of the trusses to see if they match up to the width of the top plates of the house.

We then Carried on with the builders wrap.The wrap was then stappled off to the top of the top plate,150mm clearance was left at the bottom for the next layer of wrap.



After Building Wrap.

Soffiet Bearers,Outriggers.

So when we went back to the build me and Brad installed the soffiet bearer to the exterior walls,2208mm from the bottom plate of the exterior wall to the bottom of the soffiet bearer.We tacked the bearers in place then used the measuring tape to lift them up or down then nailed them home.After they were nailed off we sighted them down the side.We used a portable scaffold to move around on which made the job a lot easier.After that we then installed an outrigger at each end of the roof,used a level to get them leveled then used the nail gun to sercure them,Then ran string lines to each end of the house with facia blocks ready for our next outriggers to be attached to.Our lengths for the outriggers at each end are 552mm.

Tomorrow we will finish the outriggers then hopefully move on to the facia.

19/6/12

So this morning we went up stairs to learn more about Trigonometry.We were given a few mathematical equations that we had to solve.We used SOH CAH TOA,Sine,Cosine and Tangent.We were given an angle to work with along with a side to a triangle.For example,16 degrees with an adjacent of 300 and we are to find the Hypotenuse,The longest side.So we use CAH.300 divide by cos16 = 312.08, This is how you get the H side in this equation.

Sides of a triangle.

To find an angle,It is a little bit different.If we have two sides,Lets say,For our opposite,we have 1080 and for our adjacent,we have 7200,We go 1080/7200 =0.15  Then 0.15tan-1 which will give us the and of 8.53.





After the session in Class we resorted back to the E-Shed.My assigned group was to continue with the Gable Roof exercise.I started with making the Raking frames for the build,Then moved onto making the Outriggers,There are 3 out riggers on each side of the Gable roof,They are evenly spaced out and nailed into the rafters on the inside of the roof so that the fly rafters can be attached at the end of the roof on the outside.They also have plumb cuts at the top so that they can evenly join up to the Ridge board.With the Raking frame,We have studs that run from the bottom plate to the top of the raking plate with the top being on a 40 degree angle.For the center stud,we have 2 40 degree cuts on the top so that it sits flush within the top of the raking plates.Once all fit nicely we skew the nails through to sercure it all into place,I used 3 inch nails as this is only a small exercise.

Tomorrow we should have the task complete,All we have left to do is the purlins down the far end along with the fly rafters.Then we can get back to the house build.Mostly all the purlins have been installed to the house trusses,Attached with 2 4 inch nails top and bottom and a purlin screw in the middle,The nails are hit in on angles to prevent uplift of the roof in ruff weather conditions.

18/6/12

So this morning,We all lined up for class with Mark.We went back over the session we had last week in regards to the Roofing.Rafters and Trusses.We went over various terms for each section of a rafter set up.

After smoko we were split in 2 groups and one half of the class were to proceed with the Purlins while my half were put on the roof making task,we went back over SOH CAH TOA,We were given an angle for our roof,ours was 40 degrees.The width of our building was 2000mm,and the length was 2400mm,we halved the width,so 1000mm,We needed to find the length of our rafters.So,The method we used was,CAH as we needed to find the longest side.So Cos40 x 1000,That gives us the lengt of the Longest side,(The rafter).We used a sliding Bevel to transfer the angles to other rafters.A hand saw was used to cut them down to the correct lengths.We then had to cut out a piece known as the birds mouth.Matt showed us how to do this,For our roof,I measured out 1288 and marked a line,Then from the line I transfered it with a sliding bevel with 40 degrees.Then moved the bevel to the end with the builders square and adjusted it then moved it back forming the piece(Birds mouth) which is to be cut out,Once it was cut out,the rafter can frimly sit flush onto the top plate of the building.

Outriggers being nailed off.

Working out how to cut out or birds mouths.

Once all the rafters are cut,They are evenly spaced then attached to the ridge board at the top.We then skewed the rafters down.Tomorrow we will finish the building exercise,The Purlins should be attached and the raking top plate will be finished.Then we will be ready for marking.

13/6/12

 So this morning we went to the second house located on the corner of Keith street and Tremaine ave that second semester had not finished.We were to install the wall Gibb.We piled into the UCOL van and headed to the work site.Once we arrived we waited for the truck to arrive from ITM with our resources.After that We got shown how to put gibb up.Mark showed us what to measure,and what screw patterns that were to be used in a braced area.


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When using a screw gun in a braced area,measure 50mm,50mm,50mm,75mm,75mm,75mm,150mm,150mm,75mm,75mm ect.Start with smaller gaps at the start and slowly progress using bigger gaps for your screws.Before screwing the Gibb up,We used gibb fix adhesive,(glue),blobs at 200mm distances on dwangs and studs.Then I put my rule down on the ground for the gibb to rest on givng me a 10mm clearance at the bottom,Once all nice and firmly placed to the studs then screw it off.

Jib that i cut for the small bedroom.

First wall done.

When it comes to putting up Gibb with openings and hotpoints.measure where the opening and hotpoints are to be placed.Use a keyhole saw to cut the gibb,Without making a mess.then for the wider openings a handsaw is used.

12/6/12

This morning we went back over Trigonometry and Pythagoras in regards to the Roofing and trusses.We went up stairs and started with the session.SOH CAH TOA was shown to us,this is used to find angles,and sides in a triangle,and a2+b2=c2 is used for finding a missing side.These formulaes are highly accurate and useful on a building site.A lot of time is saved using these methods.They are Plain and simple,easy to remember.SOH CAH TOA are drawn up into 3 triangles to make it super easy to find out which one to use for what ever problem that may occur.

Purlins being nailed off and checked for straightness.

Once we had gone over the mathematical side of things we then moved on with the build down stairs.We had to then calculate the amount of rows of purlins needed for the roof.We set up the first row down the end of the trusses,at the top end we measured 150mm down,then got the inside to inside measurement of the length of the trusses and divided it by 815mm,the overall measurement was 3605mm in length.We lended up with 6 rows of purlins,We also cut the hip purlins to the right angle and since they were short,we cut them over a trusse so they can be joined over something sturdy.Most of them have been installed to place.Two 4 inche nails were used to nail them down at the top and bottom.A purlin screw is to be put in the middle.

Purlins.

Soffits will then be installed once we have everything else sorted.

11/6/12

Today we finally moved onto the roofing side of things,We sat down in the class and went over some roof definitions;


Collar ties- Holds rafters together(have to be 1.8m apart or every third rafter.)

Ridge Board- Where the rafters meet at the highest point, (needs to be dead flush on the bottom of it)

Common Rafter- Forms the shape of he roof(must land 100% on ridge board) 

Start Rafter-Is the same length as a common rafter.

Cleat- Stops immediate movement under ridge board.

Hip Rafter- Forms apex of hips, jack rafters fix to hip rafters. (has to be bang on straight, on a equal pitch roof it should be 45 deg) 

Jack Rafters- Form hip shape (braces and straightens the hip rafters)

Dodgem block for the trusses.

Dodgem block for the trusses.

Ceiling Joist- Stops the walls from falling out under pressure.  (1.8m max spacing)

Cripple Rafter- Fits between a hip and a valley

Outriggers- Form eave of gable end (canter leavers off racking top player)

Short Hip- Connect change of height in ridge board

Valley Rafter- Form the valley of the house

Under Purlin Strut- Take weight from under purlin and transfers it to sterdy beam

Load Bearing Wall- Takes immediate weight from struts To under purlin struts

Mark drew up a few pictures to help most of us get our heads around it.After we went through all of this,I went over the road to the UCOL library and hired out the Rafters and Trusses book,Just to make things much easier for study.


After Smoko we progressed on with the build,We installed the remaining jack trusses.Then we were told to center the trusses at 830mm centers.We then set up a string line on the outside with a dodgem block,The blocks had to be nailed in place as they moved because of how tight the stringline was.A few of the trusses were then moved from side to side to get the adjustments right,Then they were fixed down.Tomorrow we should be nailing down the purlins and calculating the right amount of rows needed for the structure of the roof.

Picture showing the names for each section of the roof.

6/6/12

So today we finished off the First aid course with a guy named Neville from Red Cross.It was a 2 day course on how to save people who are involved in different unfortunate situations.For example;Car crashes,falls,drownings and many more.I learn't about CPR and how to do the Recovery position.To do the recovery position,You grab the persons left arm,lay it flat on the ground,The grab their shoulder and hip and pull them over till they are on their side,Then grab thier leg and pull it inwards so they can support themselves and thier head will be facing downwards preventing the person from throwing up and choking on their own vomit.
We used dummys and were shown where to place our hands for the chest pumps,Its 30 presses to 2 breathes.We had also been given these face plastic sheets which were to be placed over the mouth of the manican and blown into twice every 30 compression's.We had to complete multiple scenarios in regards to serious accidents.Once we had done these I got marked off and signed showing that I can do these important steps,We as first aiders abide by the DRABCD,;

D – Danger
Check for danger – to yourself, others and the injured person. You can’t help someone else if you become hurt yourself. Only move an injured person if it’s absolutely necessary to get them away from danger.
R – Response
Check for any physical response – is the person conscious? Squeeze the person’s shoulders and ask for their name. If they respond and are conscious, check for other injuries.
A– Airway
If the injured person doesn’t respond, look in their mouth – is the airway clear of foreign material? If not foreign materials are present, leave the injured person on their back and open the airway by placing one hand high on the injured person’s forehead and supporting the chin with the other hand. Gently tilt the head backwards, lift the chin and open the injured person’s mouth.
B – Breathing
Check for breathing. Look and feel for breathing by searching for chest movements, or by placing your head close to the injured person’s mouth and listening for the sound of breathing or feel for their breath on your cheek.
If breathing is apparent, lay the injured person on their side in the recovery position, call 111 for an ambulance and regularly check the person for signs of life.
If they are not breathing, ask someone to call 111. Open the airway by tilting the head backwards,
Pinch the soft part of the nose closed. Lift the chin and hold the person’s mouth open.
Take a breath and blow steadily into the mouth – watch for their chest to rise. Repeat twice.
C – CPR
Check the injured person for signs of life. Is the injured person breathing, responding or moving? If there are no signs of life, start CPR.
If the person if an adult, or a child older than 1 year old, place the heel of your hand over the lower half of the breastbone in the centre of the chest, with the other hand on top of the first.
If the injured person is an infant (1 year old or younger), place two fingers (index and middle finger) over the lower half of the breastbone. Press down 1/3 of the depth of the chest.
Give 30 compressions and two breaths (30:2) to the injured person. You should complete five sets of CPR (five sets of 30:2) in about two minutes. Continue CPR until the ambulance arrives.
D – Defibrillator
If a defibrillator is available, apply it and follow the voice prompts.

Once we had finished with the first aid,Me and a few others got back out to the house build and installed the Jack trusses along one end of the house.A level was used to Plumb/level up the trusses.