So this morning,I went back over all the internal walls to see if the walls were plumb,A few were out mostly because the Trusses were put up yesterday.One wall was out 15mm at the top.The tack was removed and the wall was moved to the correct position.Then the air compressed nail gun was used to nail the wall to the blocking.After all the walls were checked for plumb.Me and Regan were told to rip some timber down at 21mm and 25mm thick lengths of 1995mm for packing in the lounge door frame,To do this we went to the joinery class to use the table saw.
We then nailed the packing lengths to the frame and removed the trimmer studs,A 10mm cut was made on the bottom of the lounge door frame so that when it comes to cutting the bottom plate for the door so You don't go cutting into the finished floor.The frame was then stood and tightly fitted between the hall way walls.A straight edge and level was used,then we used the 3.4.5 method to get a 90 degree angle,1200mm at one end,900 at the other and from each end point they should meet at 1500mm.Then the frame was nailed home.
After lunch,Me and a few others decided to fit the end dwangs to the frames,since all the walls are Plumb and square.For this I used the as powered Nail gun.I had to mark where some of the new dwangs were to go as there were no marks on some of the studs.
Tuesday 29 May 2012
Monday 28 May 2012
29/5/12
So to start of the day,We went upstairs to learn about trusses,there are so many trusses/roofs to choose from,I learn't what a hip roof was,It is a roof that is pitched on all sides,On a slight angle.Here are a few definitions in regards to trusses;
Valley = Where two roof planes meet at an internal corner.
Apex/Ridge=Top point of the roof.
Hips=The angles that glide down on the roof.
After our little session in class,Me and a few others were to complete the finishing touches for the opening in the lounge for the sliding doors.I got the router out and clamped the guide that I had made for the straps to the stud and boundary joist.The router was set to the right depth,I nail punched in existing nails to stop the router from hitting the nails.Once the the timber was routered into I put the strap in place and nailed in 6 galv nails in each end of the strap,(More can be put in if the builder chooses to)
Next up I had to grab a nail plate and mark a pencil line around the outside at the top plates down to the stud next to the opening.Then chizled out the chunks and nailed the plate into place so it was all nice and flush with the exterior wall.
After lunch we returned to find out that we were to be blogging till 3pm,After this we finally got to install the roof trusses,now it's starting to look like a house.We followed the roofing plans provided by ITM,These are constructed by them and advanced machinery.Not any odd person can build them,You have to be qualified to be able to.The first truss is lifted up and tacked into place,then another one at the far end is tacked to it to prevent it from falling.The same process is done at the following end.Once both ends are even,a string line is then attached to the tops making it easier for the others to be set up.Next up,Perlins!
Valley = Where two roof planes meet at an internal corner.
Apex/Ridge=Top point of the roof.
Hips=The angles that glide down on the roof.
After our little session in class,Me and a few others were to complete the finishing touches for the opening in the lounge for the sliding doors.I got the router out and clamped the guide that I had made for the straps to the stud and boundary joist.The router was set to the right depth,I nail punched in existing nails to stop the router from hitting the nails.Once the the timber was routered into I put the strap in place and nailed in 6 galv nails in each end of the strap,(More can be put in if the builder chooses to)
Next up I had to grab a nail plate and mark a pencil line around the outside at the top plates down to the stud next to the opening.Then chizled out the chunks and nailed the plate into place so it was all nice and flush with the exterior wall.
After lunch we returned to find out that we were to be blogging till 3pm,After this we finally got to install the roof trusses,now it's starting to look like a house.We followed the roofing plans provided by ITM,These are constructed by them and advanced machinery.Not any odd person can build them,You have to be qualified to be able to.The first truss is lifted up and tacked into place,then another one at the far end is tacked to it to prevent it from falling.The same process is done at the following end.Once both ends are even,a string line is then attached to the tops making it easier for the others to be set up.Next up,Perlins!
Sunday 27 May 2012
28/5/12
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| Big opening in the lounge/Kitchen |
New dwangs will be made to match,I used a Skilsaw to cut the lintel down to the right length,Made a minor mistake then Cam came and showed us how it was done.A spirit level was used to get the studs all level/plumb.We then realised that the lintel looked slightly bowed.So I set up a dodger block.By the time this happened it was time to pack up and get ready to blog.Tomorrow we will have all the studs in the correct spots and nailed down using 4 inch reds steel nails with the paslode nail gun.And if the lintel is bowed then bracing will be installed and used to pull the bow out.
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| Amended Plans to comply with NZS3604 |
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| 2 Trimmer studs along with a stud,another is yet to be put in place. |
Tuesday 22 May 2012
23/5/12
Me,Tom and Phil went out to Mt Bigs school with Dave today to work on an extentionFirst off we stopped off at Placemakers to pick up a few items such as nails,6 sheets of ply,H4..My jobs were to get measurements of the studs lining up with the rafters that slope on 8 degrees.Skilsaw was used on an 8 degree angle to trim the top of the stud so it would fit into place.4 inch nails were used to hold them in place.Dwangs were 355mm in length and were hand nailed in as the nail gun had no battery left.The ply on one side of the building was nailed off and finished.Now that the studs are all in place along with the dwangs it is ready for ply.
We then returned back to class,All of the house walls are now erected in place.I measured the large opening in the lounge for the big window.Turned out that the top of the opening was out 15mm and the bottom was out by 60mm,Which is a massive problem!,I used a sabre saw to cut through the nails holding the studs in place.Ear protection was used while cutting.Once these were out we re-marked the bottom plate.Hammered the studs to the right spots and nailed them into place,ready for the window to be put in.
Cam and Matt then picked up that the top plates on the exterior wall on the wet area side was out by like 5mm.This was fixed so now we have to string line our internal walls and then get them all plumb.A peice of 4x2 was used to move the exterior wall while we got the doger block all sorted and in place.
The walls went up quite fast as the numbering made it easier,We later on found out that the linen cupboard wall was not made up,So we are now in progress with the making of that wall.The internal walls are braced from the top plate to the exterior top plate.
We then returned back to class,All of the house walls are now erected in place.I measured the large opening in the lounge for the big window.Turned out that the top of the opening was out 15mm and the bottom was out by 60mm,Which is a massive problem!,I used a sabre saw to cut through the nails holding the studs in place.Ear protection was used while cutting.Once these were out we re-marked the bottom plate.Hammered the studs to the right spots and nailed them into place,ready for the window to be put in.
Cam and Matt then picked up that the top plates on the exterior wall on the wet area side was out by like 5mm.This was fixed so now we have to string line our internal walls and then get them all plumb.A peice of 4x2 was used to move the exterior wall while we got the doger block all sorted and in place.
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| Exterior Walls. |
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| One of the main walls in the hall way. |
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| Photo taken from the lounge. |
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| All walls are stood. |
Monday 21 May 2012
22/5/12
So this morning,We went up stairs to have a quick revise over the different timbers we use in our country ect,After that we then went on to learning about the different treatments for timber that we use for our builds.H1.2,H3.1,H3.2,H.4 and H.5The higher the the number the more protected the timber is against Boreing,Fungus,Dampness basically rotting.H5 are used for piles and fencing along with H4.
H1.2 is mostly used for framing,It is protected from the weather above ground,But with an exposure to moisture.It is protected from borer and fungal decay.
H3.1 and H3.2 is exposed to weathering above ground level with periodic wetting,basically protected against Fungi and borers.
Also used for decks and external beams as long as it does not touch the ground.
H4 is exposed to the weather in the ground or in fresh water,ground contact or conditions of severe weathering,mostly used for fence posts and landscaping timbers.
H5 The highest treated timber,Used for ground contact.To be used for piles posts for decks.
We were given a small chart with a summary as to what each treatment does.Once we had been in the class for an hour we moved back to the EShed where we done our first Wall assessment.After this Me and Tom set out to correct yet another few walls,The first one have the lintel put in the wrong way and the second being that they used 90x45 for a lintel over a wide space when 6x2 was ment to have been used,plus gal nails were not used for the lintel.I cut the 6x2 up to the correct length,1670mm then used galv nails,nailed in at 300mm centers,4 nails for each 300mm row.Each row to be shot in different directions.This is done so the lintel has no way of coming apart at all.
After this I then finished nailling in the Second top plates,After the walls were plumb,A few others went around and used the plumb bob,We then braced From the inside and removed the outside braces as they will be an obstacle later on in the build.
H1.2 is mostly used for framing,It is protected from the weather above ground,But with an exposure to moisture.It is protected from borer and fungal decay.
H3.1 and H3.2 is exposed to weathering above ground level with periodic wetting,basically protected against Fungi and borers.
Also used for decks and external beams as long as it does not touch the ground.
H4 is exposed to the weather in the ground or in fresh water,ground contact or conditions of severe weathering,mostly used for fence posts and landscaping timbers.
H5 The highest treated timber,Used for ground contact.To be used for piles posts for decks.
We were given a small chart with a summary as to what each treatment does.Once we had been in the class for an hour we moved back to the EShed where we done our first Wall assessment.After this Me and Tom set out to correct yet another few walls,The first one have the lintel put in the wrong way and the second being that they used 90x45 for a lintel over a wide space when 6x2 was ment to have been used,plus gal nails were not used for the lintel.I cut the 6x2 up to the correct length,1670mm then used galv nails,nailed in at 300mm centers,4 nails for each 300mm row.Each row to be shot in different directions.This is done so the lintel has no way of coming apart at all.
After this I then finished nailling in the Second top plates,After the walls were plumb,A few others went around and used the plumb bob,We then braced From the inside and removed the outside braces as they will be an obstacle later on in the build.
Sunday 20 May 2012
21/5/12
We all started with 1 hour session in class in regards on how to use a plumb bob and how to straighten our frames using bracing.I never knew how to use a plumb bob or what it was untill today.It is quite an interesting tool to use.It is set up at the top of the Top plate,A nail is nailed in for the string line for the plumb bob to be attached to.The string is to overhang over the timber.A 100mm gap is something managable measurement to be used.A rule is then used to measure from the inside of the string to the outside of the exterior frame at the top plate.Once that measurement is gathered then the next one is to be taken from the bottom plate.If it is 103mm at the bottom then it is out.which would mean the bottom plate is sticking out an extra 3mm.
Dodger block-3 blocks with the same width and a string line with a nail at each end.
If there is rain and or wind then it is practical to use a bucket fill of water(Plumb bob in bucket) as this stops it from moving when trying to get the measurements.This is a highly accurate way of finding plumb for the walls.
Spirit level and straight edge is used at each corner of the building to get level,then bracing is nailed in at the top and can then be used as a guide to move the wall backwards and forwards.So that the right position can be found,Once this is done then you can brace to the boundary joists to keep it in the correct position.For the bigger spaces.Such as the lounge,bracing will come into the middle of the room(sercured to blocks to the floor) as the outside of the house will need to be wrapped with builders paper.It is also vital that the internal walls are inside the house before the last exterior wall is sercured in.
After being in the class room we went out to the workshop to continue squaring up the remaining walls.Once we had done that,Me and Brad,were given the task of setting up a dodgem block,on the outside of the wet area exterior walls.We removed a quarter of the tacked nails in the bottom plate then used a block and ran it between the string line and bottom plate to see how much we had to move the plate.At 600mm centers we nailed the plate down,A dogyu was used to move the bottom plate to the right spot.Then the nails were used.
Dodger block-3 blocks with the same width and a string line with a nail at each end.
If there is rain and or wind then it is practical to use a bucket fill of water(Plumb bob in bucket) as this stops it from moving when trying to get the measurements.This is a highly accurate way of finding plumb for the walls.
Spirit level and straight edge is used at each corner of the building to get level,then bracing is nailed in at the top and can then be used as a guide to move the wall backwards and forwards.So that the right position can be found,Once this is done then you can brace to the boundary joists to keep it in the correct position.For the bigger spaces.Such as the lounge,bracing will come into the middle of the room(sercured to blocks to the floor) as the outside of the house will need to be wrapped with builders paper.It is also vital that the internal walls are inside the house before the last exterior wall is sercured in.
After being in the class room we went out to the workshop to continue squaring up the remaining walls.Once we had done that,Me and Brad,were given the task of setting up a dodgem block,on the outside of the wet area exterior walls.We removed a quarter of the tacked nails in the bottom plate then used a block and ran it between the string line and bottom plate to see how much we had to move the plate.At 600mm centers we nailed the plate down,A dogyu was used to move the bottom plate to the right spot.Then the nails were used.
Tuesday 15 May 2012
16/5/12
Started the day with Pulling frames apart and moving studs to the correct places.New dwangs were made up for the walls as a few were quite messy and split.Once this exterior wall was done I moved on to with routering out the Large lintel in the lounge to fix a nail plate in place so it was flush with the timber,6 (35mm) gavlnised nails were required at each end of the strap to comply with NZS3604.These straps are there to prevent uplift in weathered conditions.The top jack trimmer studs and studs are chizled for a nail plate to be put in place.
Once this was done we were instructed to measure the top and bottom plates to see if they were at the correct lengths,once this was done we then measured the diagonals there were a few frames that didn't match up so I used a sledge hammer to knock them to the correct place,once all measurements matched up a brace was then nailed diagonally to the frame on the out side.2 (100mm)hand nails were used to sercure the brace at the bottom and one at the top.Once these are all braced we then stood the frames up,They were pushed firmly up against the already standing wall then nail gunned together.Nails were then put into the bottom plate to the floor.Once we had atleast 3 walls standing,We made up the second top plates,Clamps were used to keep the timber from bowing.The second top plates overlap each wall to structure it and to keep joins away from other joins.
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| Guide made for routering out a 4-5mm deep cut. |
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| Nail Plate installed from top plate to stud and jack trimmer stud. |
Monday 14 May 2012
15/5/12
So today we started to install the sill trimmers to the frames.For the wall I was working the window sat 800mm from the bottom of the house.So 45mm taken off due to the bottom plate and another 45mm taken off from the sill trimmer,so 710mm in length for the jackstuds.The sill trimmers are H3.1 Treatment,This is to prevent the wood from rooting if water does get through some how.We have limited timber for the Sill trimmers so extra care is needed when measuring and cutting.There is also a 10mm on each side of the windows for a bit of lee way for packing.I also went and cut all the Trimmer studs and jack studs.3 nails were used at each end of the stud to hold it into place.
Half of the exterior walls were stood up today and braced to the flooring of the house.So now we have more room to work with,with our internal walls.Tomorrow I will go over and check that our studs are at 600mm centers on all framing as I have come across a few with the wrong centers.
The tools/powertools I used today;Nail gun,hammer,square,Radial arm saw.Ear protection was used when using the Radial arm saw.
Earlier in the day,we had a session in the class room with Matt,in regards to the different timbers that are used in the building industry.We learn't the difference between Soft and Hard woods.Along with Exported and imported timber.Small samples were handed around the class,Radiata Pine is mostly used as it is a quick growing species compared to other timbers,It is easy to mill,easy to work with and is easy to treat.
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| Exterior walls. |
Half of the exterior walls were stood up today and braced to the flooring of the house.So now we have more room to work with,with our internal walls.Tomorrow I will go over and check that our studs are at 600mm centers on all framing as I have come across a few with the wrong centers. |
| Sill Trimmers. |
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| Exterior walls. |
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| Exterior walls going up. |
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| Walls being braced. |
Earlier in the day,we had a session in the class room with Matt,in regards to the different timbers that are used in the building industry.We learn't the difference between Soft and Hard woods.Along with Exported and imported timber.Small samples were handed around the class,Radiata Pine is mostly used as it is a quick growing species compared to other timbers,It is easy to mill,easy to work with and is easy to treat.
Sunday 13 May 2012
14/5/12
So today we were directed to a new classroom and Matt drew up a small diagram of which we had to label.This included studs,Trimmer studs,Jack Studs,dwangs,lintel,Double blocking.We were also shown how to mark out our top and bottom plates better.Matt also showed the class what to do and what not to do.
Once we had finished the session in the class we then moved on with the build,Me and Darren was given the task to go back over each internal wall and get the parallel measurements,A few were 1mm out,which is not bad,thats all that will be tolerated.Quite a few of my marks on the plates had been removed so we had to remark them using the plan that I had marked out for each wall.Turned out Wall 11 had not been constructed yet.So that was mine and Darrens next job,We built the wall and The markings on this wall were also wrong which ment we had to pull the wall apart again!Hopefully we will finish this tomorrow.The wall that we are building contains,Studs,Double blocking,Blocking,Trimmer studs,Lintel and jack studs.
Tomorrow we hope to get all the exterior walls all marked correctly so we can start building them and actually getting the walls put up.The walls will be braced to the floor on the inside.
Once we had finished the session in the class we then moved on with the build,Me and Darren was given the task to go back over each internal wall and get the parallel measurements,A few were 1mm out,which is not bad,thats all that will be tolerated.Quite a few of my marks on the plates had been removed so we had to remark them using the plan that I had marked out for each wall.Turned out Wall 11 had not been constructed yet.So that was mine and Darrens next job,We built the wall and The markings on this wall were also wrong which ment we had to pull the wall apart again!Hopefully we will finish this tomorrow.The wall that we are building contains,Studs,Double blocking,Blocking,Trimmer studs,Lintel and jack studs.
Tomorrow we hope to get all the exterior walls all marked correctly so we can start building them and actually getting the walls put up.The walls will be braced to the floor on the inside.
Tuesday 8 May 2012
9/5/12
We were all told that we were off to the second semester house today to do some jibbing,It was a good opportunity to see what the house looked like and how ours will look like once the walls are standing.
We all got into the vans and headed off to the second house,Matt showed us the screwing pattern for the ceiling jib.5 screws at each end and 3 screws in the centers.A screw gun was used to do this,We used jib fix,to put 4 blobs of glue in increments of 200mm,We were to insert them where the glue wasn't put as when the glue drys it shrinks which would force the screws to uplift leaving imperfections on the jib.We also started to finish the bats so that the Wall jib is ready to be put up.
We measured the length of the ceilings and took off 10mm so it would fit in nicely,It took 6 of us to install all the lounge jib.Also the holes in the ceilings were measured for the lighting.It was done rather quickly.The tools I used were Screwgun,hammer,craftknife,builders spirit level and glue gun.
We all got into the vans and headed off to the second house,Matt showed us the screwing pattern for the ceiling jib.5 screws at each end and 3 screws in the centers.A screw gun was used to do this,We used jib fix,to put 4 blobs of glue in increments of 200mm,We were to insert them where the glue wasn't put as when the glue drys it shrinks which would force the screws to uplift leaving imperfections on the jib.We also started to finish the bats so that the Wall jib is ready to be put up.
We measured the length of the ceilings and took off 10mm so it would fit in nicely,It took 6 of us to install all the lounge jib.Also the holes in the ceilings were measured for the lighting.It was done rather quickly.The tools I used were Screwgun,hammer,craftknife,builders spirit level and glue gun.
Monday 7 May 2012
8/5/12
This morning we had to find information in our groups based on a type of pile that we were given to research about.Ours was cantilever Piles,The cantilever piles are driven into the ground,2 of the 3 thirds is driven in the earth,H5 treatment timber is used to prevent rotting and the boring from insects.The bearers are then fixed to the piles using m12 Galv bolts with 50x50x3mm gavl square washers.No concrete is used and no footings are dug.These battle earthquakes and high winds(Horizontal),mostly all weathering.All the vertical load is also transfered from the house to the bearers to the piles.
After I gathered the info we had to draw up a quick sketch of the pile and how it is used.Everyone completed this and now i have a much better understanding of piles and what piles are suitable for different terrain ect.
Me,Brad and Takey then moved back onto finishing the internal walls of the house build.We come across a few small errors,luckily we re-checked the measurements.We lended up connecting the bathroom,toilet and linen walls together,All the studs,dwangs and trims were then nailed in.We are pretty close to finishing all the walls,next up,exterior walls.
After I gathered the info we had to draw up a quick sketch of the pile and how it is used.Everyone completed this and now i have a much better understanding of piles and what piles are suitable for different terrain ect.
Me,Brad and Takey then moved back onto finishing the internal walls of the house build.We come across a few small errors,luckily we re-checked the measurements.We lended up connecting the bathroom,toilet and linen walls together,All the studs,dwangs and trims were then nailed in.We are pretty close to finishing all the walls,next up,exterior walls.
Sunday 6 May 2012
7/5/12
To start off the day,I was given the simple task of giving each internal wall(top and Bottom plates at this stage) a number,so that when we are to refer to the building plans we know where they will be placed after we have nailed the studs in along with the blocking an dwangs.Our Studs were cut to 2360mm and our blocking ranged from 350mm-250mm in length,these are also to be within the chalked line for the dwangs.
I marked down all these numbers on a fresh plan so we all know where the walls are to be placed,I then moved onto building the sound proof wall with Takey and Brad.We used 75x45mm H1.2 treatment wood.We then zig zaged the studs and nailed them to the top and bottom plates.All our measurements were transfered from the top plate to the bottom whilst still being tacked together to prevent future issues.Our best piece of the two plates is to be used for the top ,as the top plate is harder get straight.
I marked down all these numbers on a fresh plan so we all know where the walls are to be placed,I then moved onto building the sound proof wall with Takey and Brad.We used 75x45mm H1.2 treatment wood.We then zig zaged the studs and nailed them to the top and bottom plates.All our measurements were transfered from the top plate to the bottom whilst still being tacked together to prevent future issues.Our best piece of the two plates is to be used for the top ,as the top plate is harder get straight.
Tuesday 1 May 2012
2/5/12
So today,Matt taught us a bit about framing,We were given a diagram of a standard wall with two windows,We were instructed to name different parts of the diagram with a list below.
-Frame components,ShownBelow;
-Studs.
-Blocks.
-Doubling Studs.
-Dwangs/Nogs.
-Sill Trimmers.
-Doubled Studs.
-Bottom Plate.
-Lintels.
-Jack Studs.
-Top Plates.
-Trimmer Studs.
I completed that,and now I have a much better understanding of framing for walls.The next thing we had to do was write out our own definitions of Framing members.Then we had to swap them around with our classmates and they had to write the componet next to our definitions.this was to give us a better view on the subject.I didn't even know what half of them had ment but now I'm pretty clued up with them.
After lunch I had to start the wall framing joints exercise.,The tools I used were,Hammer,Chizel,Square,Sliding Bevel,and hand saws.I followed the plans that were given to me,And worked out all the correct lengths that the timber was to be cut to.Once I had scribed and marked out the lines on the timber I started the chizling.I made one mistake,but picked right back up.My joins are pressure tight as they should be.With a paper thin gap.
-Frame components,ShownBelow;
-Studs.
-Blocks.
-Doubling Studs.
-Dwangs/Nogs.
-Sill Trimmers.
-Doubled Studs.
-Bottom Plate.
-Lintels.
-Jack Studs.
-Top Plates.
-Trimmer Studs.
I completed that,and now I have a much better understanding of framing for walls.The next thing we had to do was write out our own definitions of Framing members.Then we had to swap them around with our classmates and they had to write the componet next to our definitions.this was to give us a better view on the subject.I didn't even know what half of them had ment but now I'm pretty clued up with them.
After lunch I had to start the wall framing joints exercise.,The tools I used were,Hammer,Chizel,Square,Sliding Bevel,and hand saws.I followed the plans that were given to me,And worked out all the correct lengths that the timber was to be cut to.Once I had scribed and marked out the lines on the timber I started the chizling.I made one mistake,but picked right back up.My joins are pressure tight as they should be.With a paper thin gap.
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